☰Vinohrady

Vinohrady is where Prague lives when it's not performing for tourists. This leafy residential neighborhood east of the center is defined by elegant art nouveau apartment buildings, tree-lined streets, and a growing scene of craft beer bars and independent restaurants. Riegrovy Sady park has one of Prague's best beer gardens — grab a cold Pilsner and settle into the terrace for views of the castle across the city. Náměstí Míru, the neighborhood's central square, is anchored by the neo-Gothic Church of St. Ludmila and a lively farmers' market. The dining scene is increasingly interesting, with Czech wine bars, Vietnamese pho spots, and bistros that rival anything in the center at half the price. Vinohrady rewards the visitor willing to step beyond the postcard Prague — the architecture is gorgeous, the pace is slower, and you'll share the sidewalks with locals walking their dogs rather than tour groups following raised umbrellas.