Parukářka is the green hill at the heart of Žižkov — a rough, unmanicured park that locals treat as the neighbourhood's back garden. The grassy slopes climb to one of the best free viewpoints in this part of the city, taking in the TV Tower, the spires of the centre, and the castle beyond, and there is a small chapel and the entrance to a Cold War-era nuclear bunker buried in the hillside.
What makes it pure Žižkov is the beer garden near the top, where the crowd is dog-walkers, students, and old regulars drinking cheap Czech lager from plastic cups as the sun goes down. Come in the late afternoon, grab a beer, and watch the city light up — it is the local alternative to a rooftop bar, with none of the price tag.