Njeguši

Njeguši is the small upland village on the inland side of the Lovćen massif, almost exactly halfway between Kotor and Cetinje. The cold dry air at 900 metres has made it the country's traditional centre for cured meats and cheese — njeguški pršut (smoked ham) and njeguški sir (a hard sheep's-milk cheese) are sold throughout Montenegro, but always taste better here.

Stop on the drive over Lovćen at one of the village's family-run konobas — Kod Pera Na Bukovicu is the long-running benchmark — for a plate of pršut, cheese, and homemade bread, with a glass of medovina (honey wine). The village itself is a couple of streets of stone houses around the small Petrović family church.

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A story
Njeguši is the home village of the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty, which ruled Montenegro from 1696 to 1918. The most famous member, the prince-bishop Petar II, was both Montenegro's spiritual head and its most important national poet — author of *The Mountain Wreath* (1847), an epic that any literate Montenegrin can still quote from.

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