Škaljari is the residential neighbourhood that sits below the southern walls of the old town, on the road towards Tivat and Budva. It is where most Kotor residents actually live: low stone houses, family-run shops, a couple of small parks, and noticeably none of the prices of the old town a few hundred metres away.
There is little for the tourist as such, but the local bakeries (pekare), the corner stores, and the cheap konobas serving lunch to dockworkers and bus drivers are reasons enough to walk through. Look for burek — the flaky meat or cheese pie that is the universal Balkan breakfast — at the small Pekara Vidov.