Beneath the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione on Via Veneto, five small chapels are decorated entirely with the bones and skulls of roughly 4,000 Capuchin friars who died between 1528 and 1870. The effect ranges from eerily beautiful to deeply unsettling: chandeliers of vertebrae, wall niches lined with skulls, complete robed skeletons posing in alcoves. The final chamber holds a skeleton identified as an unnamed Barberini princess.
The small museum at the entrance provides context about Capuchin history and the tradition of memento mori. Regardless of your beliefs, the crypt is one of the most extraordinary and genuine experiences in Rome — singular in a way the headline sights are not. Children are admitted; judge your own.