Rome's most atmospheric neighbourhood — a tangle of cobblestone alleys, ivy-draped medieval buildings, and ochre-and-terracotta facades west of the Tiber. It was Rome's working-class neighbourhood for centuries (the name means "across the Tiber") and is now dense with restaurants, bars, and trattorias. The Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, with its 12th-century mosaics, is the architectural centrepiece.
Best explored on foot in the evening, when the alleys come alive. For food, Bar San Calisto for a cheap spritz, Tonnarello for cacio e pepe, or Dar Poeta for pizza. Avoid the most tourist-facing restaurants on the main square; the best places are a few alleys in.