A surviving Madrid taverna — vermouth from the barrel, house vermouth on tap, porrón wine jugs on the shelf — Bodega de la Ardosa dates from 1892 and has barely changed. The interior is tiled, cramped, and always full. The house salmorejo (cold tomato soup, thicker than gazpacho) and tortilla are genuinely excellent. Vermouth at midday is the correct order.
The Ardosa holds the distinction of being one of the very few places in Madrid where the crowd has stayed working-class and neighbourhood despite the considerable gentrification pressure around it. Calle de Colón 13. Metro Tribunal.