The big grey granite church on a hilltop above the Kallio district. Designed by Lars Sonck and completed in 1912, it is the major monument of Finnish national-romantic church architecture — square, heavy, with a tall narrow tower visible from a great distance. The 65-metre tower contains the largest carillon in Finland; the bells play Sibelius every weekday at noon and at 6 pm.
The interior is plainer than the exterior — Lutheran functionalism, with high windows and a flat coffered ceiling — and free to visit outside service times. Combine with a wander through the Kallio district below, the traditional working-class neighbourhood that has become Helsinki's most fashionable address.