The Zona Rosa, the "pink zone", fills the southern wedge of Colonia Juárez between Reforma and Insurgentes. Once the city's glamorous café society in the 1950s and 60s, it is now Mexico City's main gay neighbourhood and its Koreatown rolled into one: a dense grid of pedestrian streets — Génova, Hamburgo, Florencia — lined with bars, clubs, Korean barbecue joints, neon signs and craft stalls.
It is brash, busy and best after dark, when the bars and clubs along Amberes and Génova come to life. By day it is a place to wander for cheap eats and people-watching, with the Mercado Insurgentes selling handicrafts and the side streets full of Korean grocers and restaurants.