Wedding has been promising to become the next big thing for so long that locals turned "Wedding kommt" — Wedding is coming — into a running joke. Solidly working-class and heavily immigrant, the district stayed cheap while the rest of inner Berlin priced itself out, and that has quietly drawn artists, studios and a scattering of good bars north of the ring. It still wears its rough edges openly.
The heart is Leopoldplatz, anchored by Schinkel's austere Nazarethkirche, with the Müllerstraße shopping strip running off it. To the west, the Volkspark Rehberge spreads into woodland and an open-air stage; to the east, Brunnenstraße runs down toward Gesundbrunnen and the wartime bunkers buried beneath it.
The standout is Silent Green, a former crematorium reborn as an arts and music venue, its domed hall now hosting concerts and film. Berliner Unterwelten runs tours through the bunkers and ghost stations under Gesundbrunnen — the best way to see the city's buried twentieth century.