Hisago has been serving oyakodon -- a bowl of steamed rice topped with soft egg and chicken cooked in a light soy-mirin broth -- from its old townhouse beside Maruyama Park since the Taisho period. The dish is simple by design, with the quality resting almost entirely on the broth and the timing of the egg: at Hisago it arrives barely set, still liquid in the centre.
The restaurant opens only for lunch and closes when the rice runs out. Queues can reach thirty minutes during peak foliage season; the wait passes quickly.