Tofuya Ukai occupies a complex of converted Edo-period sake warehouses and tea gardens in the southern reaches of Kyoto, a short walk north of Fushimi Inari. The menu is built around yudofu -- silken tofu simmered in kombu broth and served with an array of accompaniments -- alongside a progression of small dishes that constitute a full kaiseki meal. Guests move between private garden-facing rooms and a central courtyard that is illuminated in the evenings.
The quality of the tofu here -- house-made from Kyoto-grown soybeans -- is markedly different from commercial varieties. Reserve well in advance; the restaurant books out weeks ahead during spring and autumn.