Kiyomizu-dera ("Pure Water Temple") clings to a steep slope of Higashiyama. Founded in 778 around a spring sacred to the deity Kannon, the present main hall dates from 1633 and is one of the most extraordinary feats of Japanese carpentry: a vast tile-roofed butai — performance platform — projecting out over the hillside on 168 keyaki (zelkova) pillars assembled entirely without nails. The view from the platform, especially in the cherry-blossom and autumn-leaf seasons, is among the great compositions in Japanese travel.
Behind the main hall, the three streams of Otowa Falls (the temple's namesake spring) are caught in long-handled cups; visitors drink for longevity, love, and academic success — but to drink from more than one is greedy. The approach up the lantern-lit slopes of Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka, lined with old wooden shops and tea houses, is half the experience. Aim for the very early morning to beat the crowds, or stay for one of the night illuminations in spring and autumn.